Wines (and Women) of Sicily

By Robert Rees

 

Mention Sicily and I don’t automatically think of high-end wine. In fact, I’m more likely to think of goats, dust and Al Pacino in a black Armani suit, mowing down waves of swarthy-skinned baddies with five o’clock shadows.

 

At a recent shindig held by a swarm of wine-pouring Armani suits (and frocks), the Sicilians stood out not only for showing great wine, but for the way they did business. For one thing, it was the women who seemed to run the show, perhaps reflecting the notion that in Sicily it is the female who sits in the seat of power in family and business affairs.

 

More than once, I therefore found myself cornered by a bountifully bosomed lady and fixed with a steely stare that would melt Clint Eastwood’s firmest resolve. Not only was I under the hammer to taste and get my commentary right, but also if the wines weren’t what I was looking for, a quick dismissal was not on the agenda: instead I was asked to “please explain”. By the end of the few days, whenever I met a Sicilian winemaker I did a fast scan for the closest exits, sat up straight and chose my words well from there onwards.

 

On the plus side, I can’t really fault the wines, other than suggesting they were shown too soon and not given much time in the bottle to develop. But that’s an indication of increased global demand rather than a lack of understanding of production.

 

It seems that the hottest region for Sicilian wines right now is also the coolest – high up on the slopes of Mount Etna in the east, where you find a combination of local rustic styles and international varietals like cabernet, shiraz and chardonnay.

 

All in all, it seems the most brilliant Sicilian wines are the indigenous ones, which, like the island’s people, are dark and brooding with a soft and sensual side but also a firm and proud idea of who they are and where they come from. There is no place for copycats here – everything is unique and undoubtedly Sicilian.

 

So, the tasting rooms of the world had better watch out: Sicily is making us an offer that we simply can’t refuse…

 

Robert recommends that you look out for:

 

• Nero d’Avola (“Pinot noir on steroids”)
• Carricante (“An aromatic white varietal – think of sauv blanc crossed with semillon”)
• Syrah (“Shiraz by a different name; the fruit is amazingly ripe and
bountiful – with the right oak treatment, this style will give the Aussies a run for their money.”)

 

Robert runs sales and marketing for www.wineexchangeasia.com.

Email him at robert@wineexchangeasia.com.

 

 

Cellar Dwellers

 

With a stable of wines that has been described as “irreverent” and “bodacious”, the mantra of Tobin James Cellars in Pasa Robles, California, is “Why can’t wine be fun?” A perennial gold medal winner for its Zinfandel, Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Syrah and famous blends, the label is renowned for the excellent value and fruit-forward taste profiles of its wines. Half of the total production of the Cellars is allotted to members of its legendary James Gang Wine Club members.

 

The team at Mercari Pacific can attest to the good vibes of Tobin James Cellars: “We’ve never been to the tasting room of the Cellars’ re-built barn and seen it empty; this is one of the most fun places to drink wine in California’s Central Coast.”

 

Special Offer: James Gang Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel are currently available to Expat Living readers for $45 per bottle.

 

www.mercaripacific.com

 

New & Notable

 

The Cellar Door has launched its first exclusive label. “We seek growers who encapsulate the very best of their area,” the Singapore-based wine supplier
told Expat Living about its new venture, “including the best varietal types for the soil conditions and climate, with a strong passion for their wines, respect for nature, and cutting-edge winemaking techniques.”

 

The following two wines in The Cellar Door range are sourced from Argentina.

 

• 2011 Malbec: “A red that exudes aromas full of fruits with hints of violets and pepper and flavours of ripened plums and cherries. This unique and delightful Malbec is well-balanced across the palate with a long and persistent finish.”

 

• 2011 Torrontes: “A unique white with powerful honeysuckle and floral aromas. An elegant pale yellow with green hues, its crisp acidity provides the palate with a refreshing finish with citrus flavours that enhance the taste of apples and pineapples.”

 

Special Offer: Usual price $25, now $19

6464 9909 | orders@thecellardoor.com.sg

 

Robust Reds

 

The secret of the great cabernet sauvignon that comes out of the Coonawarra, one of Australia’s finest wine regions, is the marriage of rich red terra rossa soil, limestone, pure underground water and a long, cool ripening season for the grapes – an ideal combination for developing this varietal’s intense character.

 

Wynns Coonawarra Estate is the oldest winery in Coonawarra, and the rich fruit character of its wines sees them regularly winning awards and high ratings as a benchmark for other wines from this region; Wynns was recently named Winemaker of the Year by Gourmet Traveller. Earlier this year, James Halliday rated the following two Wynns wines at 97 points each:

 

• Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon 2008

• Wynns Coonawarra Estate Michael Shiraz 2008

 

Special Event: Sue Hodder, Wynns Chief Winemaker, is in Singapore for a series of exclusive events at the end of May. For a chance of attending a special tasting, email promotions@wineedgeclub.com (winners selected at random).
Wynns wines are available in Cold Storage, Marketplace and Carrefour supermarkets.

www.wineedgeclub.com
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