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Restaurant review: Garage at Riverside Point (closed)v

Cars bore me to sobs, so I’m glad the garagey theme at Garage extends only so far – a few rusty drums, some old licence plates on the wall, and the occasional spanner motif.

Food is another matter. It never bores me. Especially not the stuff cooked by 26-year-old Londoner, Tim Ross-Watson (formerly of Gordon Ramsay’s Foxtrot Oscar), who brilliantly helms this French-bistro reincarnation of what used to be Wine Garage.

Here’s one especially non-boring thing that Tim does at Garage: he presents a crisp fillet of pan-fried snapper ($32) on a creamy mattress of sweet potato fondant, surrounded by – yes, on the same plate – three gleaming chunks of so-braised-it’s-gooey pork belly. A surf-‘n’-turf triumph.

Twenty minutes earlier, I’d been equally blown away by his duck rillette ($13) – rustic pâté served with perfect pear chutney, smeared onto crusty mini-toasts.

Twenty minutes before that, I’d ordered a Hemingway daiquiri, downing the citrusy goodness as fast as I could, in homage to the bearded drinker and writer. Awesome cocktails here, by the way, and if you miss the Happy Hour before 8pm, it kicks in again from 11pm to 2am. A hundred wines, 20 by the glass, from as little as $10 a glass.

I’ll stop going backwards in time now, lest I forget to mention dessert, a flirtation with molecular gastronomy called “Raspberries” ($16). This features a trio of spoons, each one carrying a plump raspberry and a sphere of liquid tea. Dip the spoons, one at a time, into an accompanying mound of honeycomb crème Anglaise, then put the whole lot in your mouth, squishing the sphere with your palate.  

And if all that isn’t enough to get you revving your engines for Garage, this might: the menu of bar snacks includes mini-burgers with Wagyu, foie gras and truffle mayonnaise ($22). The holy trinity of burger ingredients.

Garage is at 30 Merchant Road, #01-07, Riverside Point. 5pm to 2am.
Call +65 6533 3188 or visit www.garage.com.sg.